Heat, crowds and elephants at the Thrissur Pooram

By Farah Irani and Murray Dewhurst in Thrissur, India

Farah: Discovering Thrissur Pooram was a delightful surprise for me, a resident of India who had never heard of this festival until the Sketch Gala was mooted by USK Thrissur. Intrigued by stories shared before the event and what I researched, I decided to stay longer just to experience this unique celebration first hand. Navigating through the bustling crowds, witnessing the mesmerising elephant processions, and immersing myself in the planned festivities became possible thanks to the invaluable guidance of our hosts, Ravi and Rethy Balakrishnan. Their insight and support allowed me to fully embrace the magic of Thrissur Pooram, turning my first encounter into an unforgettable adventure of discovery.

MD: Invitations like this don’t come along very often. The chance to meet other sketchers at the Thrissur Sketchgala, teach some workshops and get to experience a Pooram. I was hooked when Ravi casually mentioned there would be up to 100 decorated elephants in attendance (keep in mind that New Zealand is home to exactly “0” elephants since Auckland’s zoo sent it’s last elephant to an Australian zoo this year). The Urban Sketchers Thrissur Sketch Gala was ingeniously devised by the USk Thrissur team around the Thrissur Pooram.

This would be my first time in India, at a Pooram and with so many elephants!

Thrissur is a city situated in the heart of Kerala state, India. An important cultural center, the name Thrissur is derived from “Thiru-Shiva-Perur”, which translates to “The city of the Sacred Siva”. The Thrissur Pooram revolves around the temple of Siva, the Sree Vadakkunnathan temple and Paramekkavu Bhagwati temple situated in and around the Swaraj Round, the large central city park surrounded by a ring road. For a week elephant processions have carried their devis (goddesses) and mahouts from the surrounding region in preparation for the event.

FI: The Paramekkavu Bhagavathi temple sketched at Murray’s workshop

It’s a sweltering 45C late April day here in Thrissur as we walk past the Paramekkavu Bhagavathi temple entrance. Crowds filter in and out (along with the odd decorated elephant!), we continue around to the side entrance, inside is where the elephant ‘ornaments’ are displayed. Each year a team of artisans create a large glistening collection of ornamentation including brightly coloured parasols (decorative umbrellas), even brighter shields and various decorations for the Kudamattom – where the two temples face-off in an umbrella showdown.

FI: Kudamattom – the umbrella showdown

We walk further around the back of the temple where we find an elephant enjoying some cool relief in a large water tank while a mahout is hosing and scrubbing him down. The normally towering, imposing animal is lying on it’s side so looks almost deflated against the water’s surface.

There are more elephants behind us. They are sheltering from the sun in a large covered area behind Paramekkavu Bhagavathi temple while their mahouts keep busy washing, watering and making sure they’re well fed.

MD: Not only elephants need shade on such a hot day, this man cheerfully kept the sun off me while I sketched these elephants behind the temple

FI: A satisfied looking elephant behind the temple

Villambranam – Pooram is open

MD: Raman pushes through the temple gate doors.

MD: This is the scene when Raman pushes through the doors of the south gate of the Sree Vadakkunnathan temple, signalling the Pooram is open and making the massive crowd go wild. I have never seen so many people in one place at the same time! ‘Raman Tusker’, or just Raman for short, is the most famous and largest elephant in attendance. He is around 60 years old. (later I learn that Raman is a controversial choice as he has previously trampled 13 people to death, several at an event this year.)

MD: Be prepared to encounter elephants through the town this week

FI: An elephant and a crowd approach one of the Poora Pandal gates on the Swaraj Round.

Adorned in golden nettipattam, gold plated headgear and bells, the elephants exude regal dignity as they parade their revered deities through throngs of people and the colourful Poora Pandal gates erected around the town center.

FI: The Thrissur heat is overwhelming! This stall near Paramekkavu Bhagwati temple serves a refreshing drink unique to Kerala. Having never tasted this before in India, I was hooked after the first sip of Nannari Shabbat, the extract of Nannari roots of the sarsaparilla plant beaten with milk chilled in mounds of ice. It’s the ultimate body coolant drink.

FI: Nannari Shabbat kiosk

Pooram morning

The noise is incredible. Our group is pushed along by the crowd, Ravi is slowly guiding our group (Darpana Athale, Reham Ali, Rethy Balakrishnan) towards the Vadakkunnathan Temple. The slow pace suits our team we’re all busy trying to capture the scene in our sketchbooks.

MD: One line of elephants, umbrellas, horn players and fans getting up close

We’re sandwiched between multiple lines of 11 elephants, each line has its own orchestra of Chenda drummers and Kombu (a c-shaped curved trumpet) players continuously building to a musical frenzy – each time the crowd cheers reach a deafening frenzy in accompaniment. A team of police between each line do their best to keep a buffer between the crowd and the elephants. At one stage we’re close enough to touch them.

Navigating the Thrissur Pooram involves deftly sidestepping not only throngs of people amidst the vibrant festivities but also elephant dung, adding a quirky yet unavoidable element to the event.

FI: Mind your step!

Murray even drew the policeman as they kept an eye on the crowd.

The main event at Pooram is Kudamattom – the umbrella showdown

We’re back the following day to witness, thirty elephants, fifteen on each side, face off for Kudamattom, the umbrella swap showdown.

We’re told that around a million people are in town for the pooram and it seems they are all here for the main event. TV crews, VIP stands, hundreds carts selling food, balloon sellers, fan sellers and anything else you can imagine is being toted through the crowd.

Caption: Toy and balloon sellers

The central elephant on each side carries the deity which is held from behind by a priest. Behind the priest a mahout holds a beautifully crafted ornamental umbrella, another holds up two fluffy cottony fans made of Yak’s fur, called venjaamaram. Yet another holds up the fans made of peacock feathers, called aalavattom. Each decoration is raised in turn and in unison with the others.

 

In a battle of creativity and innovation, a fresh colourway of umbrellas are passed up to the mahouts by their support team below and exchanged periodically to the rhythm of the music played by the orchestra. This process is repeated again and again, with each new display of colour, the music and crowd in frenzy.

Murray, Manish Pimpley and Farah riding an auto rickshaw on the way to Pooram

Closing of the Pooram

The crowd frenzy is at its peak as the elephants line up for their last performance. I got pushed by the crowds towards the front of the temple. Surging in the sea of humanity I continued sketching what was in front of me. The crowd perched on the temple walls seemed to be focusing completely on the entrance of the temple. Hands waved in sync with the rhythm of the drumbeat, and the frenzy of cameras clicking seemed never-ending. The rhythms accelerated, heightening the palpable excitement in the air. Suddenly the crowd erupted in a roar… and within minutes started dispersing.

Police swing into action, quickly pushing the crowds out and cordoning the area around the temple for a final earthshaking fireworks extravaganza.

A final salute between two elephants carrying the deities of Thiruvambadi and Paramekkavu temple ends the 36 hour Pooram. After the salute the elephants turn and make their way to their respective temples and prepare to come back next year.

If you would like to learn a little more about the Pooram, direct message Urban Thrissur for your copy…

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6bsY19BAxa/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

_______

 

Artist’s Website:

http://www.aucklandsketchbook.com

http://www.farahcolors.com

 

Author
Farah Irani and Murray Dewhurst
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